This is Rijeka, Croatia as seen from Trsatska Gradina, not far from our apartment. Rijeka is unrivaled in character and reveals probably the best representation of overall ability of any city that I have encountered. It's the kind of place you can kick in the stomach, and it just looks up at you and says, "See, that really didn't hurt too bad. I remember the time, you know, when I had lots of industry and was a real center for trade. Maybe things have slowed down a bit, but I know I can become that real Adriatic crossroads once again." And everyone pretty much just nods in agreement because hey, it can be done. Rijeka boasts more parking blocks and parking fences than many cities two and three times its size. And when it comes to cosmopolitan flair, Rijeka is unequaled. Where else can you be eating Hungarian goulash, Austrian schnitzel, Italian gnocchi, and Turkish kebaps within minutes of each other? It is also said that Rijeka is home to the original cafe scouts, who began the effort during the final days of WWII as they fought the political fight in the coffee shops and caffe bars. These guys are true heroes, and although I haven't exactly found the monument erected in their honor, I am currently lobbying local and county governments here to get 'em a square. I would probably say something like Neka dobiju trg! At the same time, it is up to us who realize the difficulties that those first pioneers faced so that we can get coffee at a place on every corner, and often in between. Perhaps it's not a square that they need; perhaps they would rather simply receive a moment of silence. As I stand up and look around, there are children playing and adults laughing. This truly is the prize of the Adriatic.